Shopping and stuff is easier to come by, and cheaper, than ever. But this comes at significant environmental and human cost. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, clothing production roughly doubled in between 2000 and 2015 and the number of times a garment is worn was reduced by approximately 36%. According to the World Economic Forum, 60% more garments were purchased but were only kept by consumers for half as long. This correlates with the meteoric rise of fast fashion retailers such as H&M and Forever 21, which churn out massive amounts of cheap clothing that quickly deteriorates or is thrown out (though, to their credit, they are trying to combat this). My own purchasing habits seem to track this trend – with affordable clothing readily available, for a long time I didn’t see any issue with buying more of it. However, the equivalent of one garbage truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill every second. One film I cannot recommend enough is The True Cost (you can, and I acknowledge the hypocrisy in saying this, stream it on Amazon). This exposé explores the dark side of fast fashion and the human rights violations and environmental destruction that sustain it.

You have likely noticed that sustainability has become trendy, for lack of a better term, in the fashion world. But beware – this is often a marketing tactic backed with only token measures, if any. Vague claims of being eco-friendly or sustainable make a company more attractive to more customers, leading them to buy more products. Let’s be real – a company adopting an eco-friendly image does not mean it practices what it preaches or has a legitimate interest in the environment. It’s marketing. This “corporate greenwashing” can actually have harmful effects if a company highlights its sustainability to distract from other unsustainable practices.

If you are going to buy new, choosing natural fibers reduces greenhouse gas emissions – synthetic fibers are made from fossil fuels, with an energy-intensive production process that emits toxic gases like N20, which is 300 times more damaging than CO2. Even natural fibers, however, both use and pollute enormous amounts of water. Cotton, for instance, requires immense amounts of water but is typically grown in hot and dry climates – where water is a precious resource. One cotton shirt requires approximately 2,700 liters of water. Microplastics are also shed when washing and even merely wearing synthetic clothing, sending these tiny particles of plastic to our natural waterways – polluting and harming animals and humans alike.

Unfortunately, however, if you are buying anything new there is an environmental cost. I have been complicit to our culture of consumerism, but am striving to buy secondhand – I have a goal for myself to buy only (okay, mostly) secondhand. Purchasing secondhand can reduce an item’s climate footprint by 73%!

I primarily use Poshmark to buy, but more-so to sell, clothes (check out my closet). If you’re interested in trying it, you can use my referral code for a $10 credit! However, nothing beats the joy of the hunt in thrifting and here are some of my favorite thrift stores in Chicago (mostly North side):

• Elliott Consignment (Lincoln Park & Lakeview)
• The Brown Elephant (multiple locations, temporarily closed but accepting donations)
• Nearly New Thrift Shop (Lincoln Park, benefits St. Vincent dePaul)
• The Salvation Army (multiple locations, but Clybourn is awesome)
• Village Discount Outlet Store (multiple locations)
• Goodwill (just FYI, while Goodwill is a nonprofit its executives are compensated handsomely from the sale of donated goods)
• Buffalo Exchange (Andersonville & Wicker Park)
• Ragstock (multiple locations)
• McShane’s Exchange (Lincoln Park)
• Mercy Beaucoup (Old Town, benefits Mercy Home)

Responsible Disposal

I am always trying to get rid of crap. It’s a constant battle that actually requires considerable strategy. I have been off-loading my used clothing through online selling, consigning, and thoughtful donations.

When donating, I have to ask whether something I’m giving away is something someone might actually want. If not, it could very well end up in the trash or shipped overseas, which doesn’t exactly help the planet. And if it’s crap to me, it’s likely crap to someone else too. My husband’s old undershirts and other used tees, for instance, instead go to Marine Layer for their Respun program. Otherwise, I generally donated to St. Vincent de Paul, the Brown Elephant (especially furniture), and the Salvation Army.

I also recently donated several nicer dresses to a Zengeler Cleaners location, which partners with the Glass Slipper Project and Mothers Trust Foundation to give prom dresses to prom-goers in need. Full disclosure – I have no idea what constitutes a prom dress nowadays, so I used my best judgment and gave contemporary dresses that I felt are appropriate for prom. Accessories, small purses, dress shoes, and makeup can also be donated.

I sell as much as I can online (mostly Poshmark, but also eBay) or via consignment (I consign with Elliott Consignment & McShane’s Exchange). I’ve sold hundreds of items this way, though unfortunately by looking at my closet you would never know. I don’t think of this as making money, but more like un-spending. It helps to offset my shopping budget. Selling my clothes ensures that, at least for the time being, these pieces will go to someone who wants them. Whether they end up in a landfill is out of my control, but their lifespans are being extended and someone is opting to buy used rather than new. I can also re-use shipping and gift materials I have laying around rather than throwing them away! Again, even if these end up in the trash at least they are being used once more before then.

Our consumerist culture has indoctrinated us with the idea that clothes (among other goods) can be disposable. Unless it is soiled beyond saving, clothing does not belong in the trash – you can sell it, donate it, or upcycle it. As inconvenient as it may be, we must be responsible consumers and take ownership and responsibility for our stuff and the consequences it has on our planet and fellow humans. Reduce and reuse, then recycle.